Photography - 14 Tips for Capturing Spring Flowers

 Sue Barthelow

 

Ah, spring is in the air. The daffodils and other spring bulbs are blooming throughout the foothills. The almond trees have moved beyond their peak bloom, and other trees are joining the cacophony of bloom to overwhelm the senses. Here in the countryside, the wildflowers are popping up, inviting us to come out and enjoy nature.

Being a photographer, you probably have your camera on your mind and, hopefully, in your hand. It's time to take advantage of those lovely spring blossoms; to capture them forever.

So dust off that camera and wake it up from its winter slumber. Here are some tips that may help.

1. Watch out for the wind. Unless it's the movement you're trying to capture, you'll get your best images when the air is still.

2. Use your tripod and self-timer or remote control to get the sharpest images.

3. Full sunlight brings out the brightest colors and adds contrast to give you highlighted detail. Watch out for dark shadows. You can lighten the shadows using a reflector or fill flash.

4. If you want to give your flowers a softer look with muted colors, shoot on an overcast day, in the shade, during early morning or after sunset. You may be able boost your colors by changing your camera's optimize image settings to something that will produce more vivid colors (check your camera manual).

5. Depending on the orientation, the light near sunset can make light colored flowers glow against a darker background.

6. Use your aperture priority setting. To blur the background, start with an f/5.6 aperture. Move upwards from there to get more and more depth of focus. Anything over f/11 is probably overkill.

7. Set your color saturation setting to Enhanced.

8. Use a variety of lens focal lengths. Try everything from wide angle to telephoto. A telephoto lets you step back from the flower and makes it easier to throw the background out of focus.

9. Try your camera's macro setting and get up close. You can capture an interesting part of a flower that will give you a different type of image.

10. Shoot in both horizontal and vertical camera positions.

11. Want to create a portrait? Try placing a black, white or colored backdrop behind a flower to give it that formal, composed look.

12. Vary your position and look for the most compelling image. You can shoot from below or above the flower. You can shoot from a level straight at it. Sometimes shooting from an off-angle will give you the best image. Watch the light and shadows. Look for an angle that gives you interesting texture or contrast.

13. Trying to capture a fine art type of image? Get up close and personal. Capture a small area of the flower that provides an interesting feature. Leave or crop out everything except for that intriguing section.

14. How about something in black and white? Look for color variations that will give you everything from black to white.

Sue Barthelow is a freelance photographer specializing in abstract, landscape, travel and wine production photography. Visit her gallery at http://www.SueBarthelow.com/photo_gallery. Shop for your photography-related gear at http://www.MoreThanCameras.com. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sue_Barthelow

A Home Based Business Using Your Camera

Michael Corby

 

Photography is a hobby to most of us, but there is a way to turn that hobby into money, simply by tapping into a new use of your Digital Camera. Introducing "Panography". This is the name of a form of photography (you have to pronounce it slowly and clearly when talking to people as it may lead to confusion with another type of "ography"). It is the art of taking panoramic photos. These panoramas may be in the form of a limited angle of view or a full 360 degrees. The great advantage of a panoramic photo is that allows the photographer to show the viewer an image that is much closer to what the eye actually sees.

Taking a Panoramic Photo There are two main ways to take a photo. One being the process of taking several frames and then "stitching" them together using software. A lot of cameras will have a stitch assist mode to help line up each photo in the sequence, but the stitching software takes care of the exact alignment. Another method is to use a "One Shot" lens. This is a parabolic mirror lens, which will take the entire panorama with one frame. The quality of the shot is less than that of stitching but of course the file size is much smaller and it therefore lends itself to use on the Internet.

Uses of Panoramas There is a commercial aspect to panoramas, the most popular being in the Real Estate industry when Virtual Tours can be constructed to showcase properties. This is where the one shot lens comes into its own as the photos for a tour can be completed within half an hour. The resulting images can then be sent to a company like www.thevirtualviewcompany.com where the images are processed and made into a virtual tour hosted on the net. This service allows Real Estate agents or independent photographers the opportunity to offer an extra service cheaply and easily. There is a real opportunity here for people to operate their own home based business. Whether you be a stay at home Mom who can find a couple of hours a day to get out and do some photography or the full time person who wants to keep their overheads low. After all, all you need is the basic equipment and access to a computer and you can then operate your own home business.

To learn more about being a Panographer and Virtual Tours visit: http://thevirtualviewcompany.com where you can find all the information you need and can download a step by step guide. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Corby

Pitfalls of Beginning Photographers - Why You Shouldn't Buy a Digital SLR with a Zoom Lens Kit

Peter Phun 

 

The biggest obstacle in a beginning digital photographer's way is often that lens that was bundled with their digital SLR (Single Lens Reflex camera.)

The marketplace is awash with digital SLR cameras touting fantastic resolution and tons of features, but most 1st time buyers don't realize how complicated these cameras really are.

Invariably that camera kit that they buy is something like a Nikon D40x or Canon Rebel XTi with a 18mm to 55 mm zoom lens and a 1GB or 2 GB memory card. It is worse if they get one with a 28 mm to 135 mm lens.

So just how complicated are these cameras? In terms of function, and how they operate they are all the same. But as far as how user-friendly and intuitive they are, how you change the settings and so forth, that's a whole different ballgame.

1. No longer is it a simple matter to change something like a very basic setting on a camera. In the analog film camera of yesterday, all you needed to know was how to set the ISO or film speed, the aperture, shutter speed, read the exposure meter, how to load and unload the camera and of course where the shutter release button is located - essentially there were only 4 settings you needed to know to work any camera. I intentionally left out focussing because I expect everyone knows how to look in the viewfinder and turn the barrel of the lens until the image in the focussing screen appears sharp.

2. These days all these very basic settings are hidden under multiple layers of menus. To change let's say something as basic as the ISO, you have to hold down one button and turn one of two possible dials. Even after you do that, you can't be sure you've changed the correct one. For instance you might think you've changed the ISO because you see the numbers on the LCD change from 100 to 125 to 160 and 200. Well, that could also be the shutter speed you just changed.

Unless you've read the manual, how can you be sure? To further complicate matters, some cameras even let you choose settings that are 1/3 of a stop. Shutter speeds on film cameras used to be 1/1000, 1/500. 1/250 etc. Now there's in between settings like 1/1250, 1/640, 1/350 etc. No wonder novices are overwhelmed.

Bear in mind, we haven't even considered those settings unique to "digital" like choosing compression or quality or file sizes, white balance, formatting of the memory card or auto focus sensor and motordrive modes to name just a few.

3. I didn't realize how confusing all these numbers can be to a novice until midway into my teaching an introductory digital photography class. I think I was telling my students to set their exposure for 1/125 of a sec at f11. One of my students looked up at me and asked if that was the focal length she was supposed to set or if it was the ISO. Perhaps it was my failing as an instructor that left her befuddled, but boy, did I learned something that day!

There are way too many variables on the digital SLRs out there especially if they are 1st time users. And on those zoom lenses they buy with their cameras, I hadn't even explained to them that the aperture on their zoom lenses are variable. It is f3.5 on the 18 mm end and f5.6 on the 55 mm end!

There was a lot of wisdom in the days of film photography when camera manufacturers bundled a SLR with a standard 50 mm lens. It meant beginners could concentrate on getting their exposure right, without contemplating why a lens had one aperture opening on the wide angle end and another on the telephoto end.

Composing by moving closer or moving back instead of zooming in and out using a variable focal length lens taught beginners not to get lazy and explore their subject by moving around.

It is for all these reasons that I find myself recommending that 1st time buyers also buy a 50 mm fixed focal length lens with maybe a aperture of f1.8 to start their adventure in photography.

Sure, that standard lens is more expensive, but in the long run, novices will learn much faster. A lens like a 50 mm f1.8 is extremely versatile.It allows you to shoot in low light.It is small and compact and is actually an 80 mm lens when you factor in the 1.6x magnification factor--perfect for portraiture.

The worse lens kit out there I've seen is one of the range from 28 mm to 135 mm. When you factor in the magnification factor of 1.6 x, on the long end, that is actually a 216 mm lens.

A 216 mm lens with an slow aperture of f5.6 is extremely limiting. That means the lens can only be used in the bright outdoors. Typical exposure for a sunny day at ISO 100 is about 1/500 sec at f 5.6. The moment the sun goes behind a cloud, they have to increase the camera's ISO.

So if you're new to photography and you're shopping for a digital SLR, consider buying a normal lens or what used to be called a standard lens--the 50 mm. Consider this also: do you really think that lens that came with the camera body can be that great?

If you price that same camera body without a lens against the whole kit (camera and zoom lens), you'll see that some vendors even throw in a bag, a lens cleaning kit and even a tripod. Do you really think they'll be able to make a profit if that lens is not a piece of junk with lousy optics?

Peter Phun is an adjunct photography instructor at Riverside City College. He is a freelance photographer, web designer and stay at home dad. He previously worked as a staff photographer for 18 years at The Press-Enterprise, Southern California's 4th largest daily newspaper. Peter is the webmaster for the Mac user group in the Inland Empire. For more information about this Riverside based photographer, visit http://www.peterphun.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Peter_Phun

Want To Get The Most From Your New Digital Camera? Read The Manual

Anita Cross

 

Nearly every digital camera on the market today has an incredible number of features. Most of these features will help you take better photos if you learn how to use them.

You could just "dive in", play around, and hope for the best. And that's exactly what most of us do, at least when we first get a new digital camera. Whether it's a new toy, or a new tool, it's exciting to get out there and start taking pictures.

To get the most out of your new toy, uh, I mean tool, you really need to read the camera's manual!

For example: Your camera has a built in light meter, with three "metering modes", to calculate the correct exposure value (EV) for the various lighting conditions. The default metering mode evaluates the entire scene, breaking it into zones or regions. The resulting exposure works well for most photographs.

Do you know what the other two metering modes are, how they affect the image, or when to use them? Do you know how to change the metering mode?

It's all there in the manual. Along with information about what each of the buttons and dials are for; What all those confusing symbols on the LCD are actually telling you; How to use the menu: How to turn off and on different functions such as digital zoom and red eye reduction; How to use special effects, like sepia and solarize; How to change the white balance; And much more.

Don't let the manual, and all those features, intimidate you. Go ahead and get comfortable with your new camera, using the features that are intuitive, or obvious to you from your experience with other cameras. Just don't stop there.

Pick an unfamiliar feature, like metering modes, and read the instructions. Then experiment with what you've just learned. Take the same shot several times, varying the feature you're working with. Upload your test images to your computer, and compare the results. When you feel comfortable working with that feature, move on to another one.

At your own pace, use the manual to explore the features and options of your new digital camera. The day will come when your tenacity pays off, when an unusual photo opportunity results in a truly great photograph.

Anita Cross is a professional photographer specializing in landscape and floral photography. A number of her photos can be purchased as royalty free stock photography, and are available exclusively at http://www.callofthewildphoto.com/ Call Of The Wild Photo sponsors an Articles resource where you will find more Digital Photography Tips from Anita and other professional photographers. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anita_Cross

Seven Spring Photography Tips

Rayman L

 

Spring is here! Here are seven photography tips for the new season.

Shoot birds as they are now coming back from the winter. Use the longest lens you have to get the bird in full frame. Use a fast shutter speed of at least 1/500 second. These critters move fast and are usually restless even while perched so you need to be prepared for their quick moves.

Shoot in black and white. The sun's still not out quite as much so on overcast days try shooting in black and white to get whatever contrast you have to stand out.

Shoot reflections. Puddles, pools of water, moisture on objects, closeups of dew, all make good subjects while we are still experiencing rain in most parts of the country. After spring rains, creeks, streams and waterfalls are at their most picturesque. So spring is a great time to photograph these waterways.

Shoot flowers. An oldy but goody. Spring flowers and blossoms are always a good subject if you need an idea.

Stormclouds and cloudy sky scenes make interesting patterns. Try this with black and white and see what results you get.

Take advantage of the best light. Usually morning light for warm yellow tones, late afternoon or evening light will give you a warmer hint of red to full red.

Finally, check your photo gear and prepare for a full on photo year. Clean your camera, lenses and gear, check and recharge all your batteries. Read up on what new accessories can enhance your shooting.

Enjoy the sights, sounds and fresh air as you go about capturing the freshness of spring!

Rayman L is a travel, photography and technology enthusiast. He runs multiple web information sites based on travel, technology and gadgets. See http://www.lensandpixels.com for more photo ideas and news. His latest sites are http://www.miniguidebooks.com and an Internet Marketing site. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rayman_L