How To Create A Pan Photo

By Al Sanez

 

In photography, there are many ways to create different effects in taking pictures. Although the beginner may not realize it, your camera can create many visually amazing effects without even using any filters! One such effect is the photographic pan. This effect is used for objects that are in motion and moving in a straight line. The result of a photo that uses the pan technique is a subject that is in focus and visible while the background is blurred and has streaks of blurriness showing motion.

Pan photos are created by panning the camera! Simple right? Yes! But it's not that simple. To become really good at pan photos you must practice it thoroughly and get used to it. Your first pan photographs may not look the way you image them to look. However, after practicing for some time, your pan photos will look much better.

To create a pan photo you must move the camera along the same path that the object that is moving is going on. You must have a moving object. The object could be walking very slow or be traveling at hundreds of miles per hour. Simply follow the object in a "pan" camera movement.

A camera pan is simply moving the camera from left to right or right to left. If you have a tripod it is simply rotating the camera left or right.

The next important thing you must do for a pan is set the shutter speed. What makes the subject in focus and the object out of focus is the extremely slow shutter speed time that will be used. A good shutter speed for running or fast walking would be 1/30 seconds. If you're shooting objects moving much faster or much slower you will need to adjust the shutter speed. Experiment and find out what works the best. A slower shutter speed will make the background much more out of focus and will need to be more precisely executed.

Using a tripod when you are performing a photographic pan will ensure that the camera stays leveled vertically. Having the camera move horizontally is what makes the pan work. Having the camera move vertically will create blur vertically and will make the picture not work. Unless you have a very leveled hand then use a tripod!

The best setting to use when taking a pan photo is shutter priority. That will let you set the shutter speed you want to use. You don't have to worry about setting the aperture as it will be automatic for you.

The reason that pan photographs are made is very interesting. The camera follows the object in motion at the same speed. This makes the camera see an object and the object seems not to be moving. The background, however, is moving, and that is what gets blurred. Following the subject perfectly will make the camera think that it is not moving and the subject is not moving but the background is moving. It's like the way the earth works. We don't think that we're moving but we think that the sun is moving because it's in one spot during the day and a different spot at night. It's all perception.

Al Sanchez has a great program that teaches how to take better photos easily. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Al_Sanez

Learn Digital Photography - Which Digital Camera Is For You?

By Dan Feildman

 

Before deciding on purchasing a digital camera, it is important that you set yourself a budget. This should happen before going online or visiting an electronics shop. It is just like purchasing any other large item else such as a computer. There are a lot of options, and you don't want to get stuck biting off more than you can chew, expense-wise. High-end cameras offer the great zoom, more extra features and more megapixels.

Having more megapixels doesn't mean you will have the great picture quality. Unfortunately these cameras can also take a huge bite out of your wallet if you are not careful. When you are starting out in the wide world of digital photography, it is easier to not spend a huge amount of money on the high-end SLR cameras. Look for cheaper, yet effective, compact digital cameras that are a lot easier to hold. The best thing to do is learn the basics with this digital camera and make sure you enjoy the hobby before spending the cash for higher-end digital cameras.

Some people don't really enjoy going on airplanes or helicopters, how do they take those spectacular aerial photos? Guess what you don't have to use planes or helicopters! Sometimes aerial shots on planes can sometimes get expensive unless you have a friend with a plane. Flying in a little plane around a city a couple of times can be quite frightening for some people. The little secret that few photographers know is: some "in-flight" photos are not actually taken from a plane. Quite the contrary, they are taken from a countryside or city vantage point. Being in the observation deck of a skyscraper will actually get you just about as high as a low flying plane would. Your photographs will look like aerial shots that were taken as you were flying around, but in fact you didn't even enter in any aircraft.

Fall is one of the most pleasurable times for photographers. It brings beautiful orange, brown, and red leaf colors. If you plan on traveling to take advantage of nature's yearly fireworks display, you need to ensure you get to your destination at the peak period to enjoy the best fall leaves. If you live in the US, the US Department of Agriculture has a website that displays fall foliage information by geographical area. Finding out the best times to visit areas is crucial.

A good place is New England. A well planned trip could be the best way to get some really extraordanary pictures. Information is updated as soon as conditions permit. If traveling is out of the question for you, check with your government agriculture website to see the best times. Good research results in spectacular pictures. Here is a good source for US photographers: The Foliage Network - http://www.foliagenetwork.com/

When you are taking fireworks photos a good location is always essential with your digital camera. As in any other type of digital photography, when shooting fireworks, composition is necessary. Before the show begins, find a good angle that will provide you with a clear picture of the upcoming fireworks. Having people in front of your camera is completely unacceptable, avoid it at all costs. Streetlights will fade out the fire works phenomenally; therefore it is best to avoid streetlamps. Basically finding the best possible shot, with few lights, few people and not against the law is difficult but doable. Sometimes have a view on a boat is helpful if the water is calm.

Sometimes taking photos at night is more difficult than it seems. Shooting photos at dusk may provide your camera with just enough light to take fantastic cityscape photos. The sky is decently dark at dusk, but not so dark to prevent some degree of sunlight entering your digital camera, making it easier to take hand-held photos that do not result all blurry due to 'camera-shake'. If you are looking for a superb nighttime photo, it would be better to consider taking your photos at dusk instead of in the pitch black of night. Dusk only lasts for an hour or so. Research your shot locations and time beforehand. Keep your eye on the weather in the location you selected and make sure its not raining the day you decide to go out.

When you are taking pictures of a parade it is best to not ruin time by trying to focus after every picture. It is best to shoot as many photos as possible during a parade, think about buying a focus lock. This keeps your shutter button held halfway down and don't completely release it after taking a photo. Or you might want to set your camera up for manual focus. This way, you can take several photos in succession, or use your camera's "drive" mode for multiple shots within a small range of time. This would enable you to take a bunch of photos without having to refocus for each shot and your digital camera should function much quicker. Though you may want to set up and refocus for certain special shots, other times you may have just as much fun continuously shooting as the action in a parade can happen very fast.

When you are taking digital pictures on sunny days, you must be careful. Sometimes the sun can completely damage your electronic camera. Taking pictures of sunsets and rises can be amusing and enjoyable, but pointing your lens directly at the sun may damage it. Try to keep your lens pointed a little bit away from the sun directly. There is a similarity between your eye and the camera lens, they both can see and both can be damaged by the sun. As a little kid your parents told you never to look at the sun or you will see spots. The same concept applies to your camera. When you are not capturing fantastic views, turn off your camera and store in someplace room temperature so you don't damage it. It is best and easiest to take photos in increments, and then allow your camera to relax by enclosing it somewhere cool.

Let me Dan Feildman, Author of "Your Guide to Digital Photography" answer your questions. Are you looking for answers about check out my digital photography basics Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dan_Feildman

 

Great Digital Photography Tips for the Amateur Photographer

By Hudson John

 

Taking great digital photos isn't difficult, although if you're new to digital cameras, you may be worried about messing up your shots. The great thing about digital cameras is that, unlike traditional film cameras, you can take as many shots as your memory card can hold - and you can delete them from your memory card to make more space, too.

Tip no. 1: Use your new digital camera frequently. The more you use it, the better you'll get. The more familiar you get with it, the more you'll find yourself using its features with great ease.

Taking lots of shots gets you familiar with your new camera. You should also try out different features, and see what effect they will have on your photos. Adjust settings, because the default settings may not be the very best one for certain photographic conditions.

Tip no. 2: Always be on the lookout for natural light. Natural light is the best light for taking photos. When shooting indoors, check out windows. However, direct sunlight coming through a window is not the best choice. A softer, more indirect light from a window works well for better photos.

If you can, take a few test shots beside different windows so you can determine which window gives you the best natural lighting.

Tip no. 3: Get rid of red-eye by using the red-eye reduction feature on your digital camera - most digital cameras now offer this feature. If you have an external flash, try holding it to the left or the right of your camera. And again, try using natural light if possible.

And if worse comes to worse, and you still end up with red-eye, pop your digital image into an image editor. Many basic ones offer a red-eye reduction feature, and this feature really does work.

Tip no. 4: Tripods are handy when taking close-ups. Portable, quality tripods are not that expensive, and will prove invaluable if you like taking close-ups or zooming in.

When using a tripod, make sure that you set it on a stable surface. And steer away from cheaper quality tripods, as these tend to be more unstable. You don't want to risk damaging your digital camera because of an unsteady tripod.

Don't be afraid to experiment. With a digital camera, you don't run the risk of wasting your film, and while occasionally you might run out of space on your memory card, it's easy to delete photos from the card to create the space you need.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hudson_John

Controlling the Depth of Field with Your Digital Camera

By Michael Warwick

 

Have you ever been frustrated with not being able to get the most depth of field from your digital camera? Digital cameras tend to focus on the subject furthest away and if that subject is some distance away it can be almost impossible to get the subject closest to you and the object furthest away both in focus. With a film camera on a tripod you can have more control of the depth of field with its manual focus. But what if you find this great shot with your digital camera and you can't use a tripod?

Here is a trick and a very effective technique. Take two shots of the same subject or scene. In one shot you have focused on the subject furthest away and on the other you have focused on the subject closest to you. You will find that it is actually pretty easy to take almost identical photos of the same scene only with two different subjects in focus. When you have downloaded your photos, in Photoshop take the one with the foreground subject in focus and select those areas that are in focus , copy them and past them into the photo with the subject furthest away in focus. Amazing! Now you have a completed photo with both the foreground and background subject in focus.

I have done this a few times and I am always amazed at the final results. As I discover these tricks, it always seems to open my mind to more possibilities.

Natural Visions Photography has been perfecting many of these methods for a few years and you are welcome to view some of this work at http://www.naturalvisions.com If you have any questions, you are welcome to email us at inquiry@naturalvisions.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Warwick

Retouching and Reinventing Old Photographs Using Adobe Photoshop

By Keith Thompson 

 

Back in the day, when you took a photo you were pretty much stuck with it. Altering the image after the fact was a black art known to few, and available to less than that. This is no longer the case. With the advent of digital imaging and more specifically, Adobe Photoshop, image editing has reached new heights of manipulative wizardry, allowing a competent user to not only touch up a photo, but to practically reinvent the image. Let's look at a few of the more basic things that Photoshop can do in the hands of even the most novice of users.

Got an awful blemish on that photo you want to post on Facebook? Not a problem with Photoshop's retouching tools, which can render even the most hideous acne invisible with the stroke of a few keys.

Torn or worn photos? Family heirlooms that cannot be replaced? Photoshop can take a scanned photo and retouch tears and scars, water damage and more to make the photograph like new again, even to the point of reinvigorating colors that may have faded over time. This ability is worth the price of Photoshop alone.

Closed eyes in that latest glamour shot? Yes, you were the only one other than Grandma who may have been half looped to begin with, and now what do you do? Use Photoshop to open the eyes, that's what!

Let's say you best picture of yourself just happens to include a former flame that's no longer so hot. Great news! You can edit out former boyfriends more quickly and easily than it was to get rid of them in the first place! You can take almost any unwanted object from a digital image forever, and it's not a difficult thing to do!

Photoshop has a great many more features that can help transform your photos from a contribution to the circular file to an image you'll want to treasure and share for years to come.

Restoring old photos to former glory and retouching other photos is one of the great advances in modern photography, due in large part to Photoshop. Start learning how Adobe Photoshop can make your photos sparkle!

For a great Photoshop tutorial, or to learn more about how you can improve your Photoshop skills, visit Keith's site at http://Fast-and-Easy-Photoshop.com/ Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Keith_Thompson

Discovering the Beauty of Landscape Photography

By Low Jeremy 

 

Symmetry, repetition, contrast, asymmetry, coherence, symbolism, and a dash of irony—these are the major components that construct a beautiful photograph taken by exceptional photographer. These are also the very same components that one needs balance when taking one of the easiest yet most difficult subjects to photograph— landscapes.

LOOKING BACK

Since they are permanent, familiar, accessible, and part of nature, landscapes have been one of the most favorite subjects by most photographers. Landscape photography can be traced as early as 1849 when the book "Egypte, Nubie, Palestine et Syrie" containing prints of paper negatives was published. In the 19th century, many eminent landscape photographers emerged which dominate large photography collections in museums and galleries worldwide. Today, many budding photographers continue to fall in love with nature. And as they pursue the road to landscape photography, more and more works and techniques continue to emerge.

FALLING IN LOVE WITH LANDSCAPES

Unlike other kinds and styles of photography, most people would say that it is easy to take landscape photographs because you don't need to instruct you subject and you can choose whatever angle you want. On the contrary, most photographers believe that landscape photography is one of the most difficult because you will need an intense set of equipment and a very keen eye to make an "ordinary" scene quite extraordinary.

Imagine capturing the natural beauty of a majestic landscape with your camera and in your own preference. Here are some of the elements you need to pay attention to before you delve into the realms of landscape photography:

1. Camera, lens, and lens shade are great deals. Although you can use any camera, most photographers would recommend SLR or digital SLR because these give wider selection of lenses and ensure superior results. Wide-angle lenses are also advised because it gives a great view into any picture. In order to protect your lens, look for a good lens hood or shade.

2. Tripod is a must. This is a very invaluable and important asset for landscape photographers to avoid the blurred outcomes and to ensure the maximum depth of field.

3. Invest on film and filters. Any film today can be used because it can record nature's color vividly. You just have to be wise in using the right ISO film to avoid grains in your photo prints.

4. Consider camera position. This greatly affects the overall quality of your photo because it requires your creative decision. (TIP: If there is a horizon line in your composition, keep it leveled so there is a room for greater possibilities.)

5. Set the direction and the type of light to be used. Proper direction accompanied with balanced lighting will make or unmake your landscape piece so make sure that you visit the location and predict the weather before your shoot.

6. Be hands-on in post exposure manipulation. To get the job done, try to learn mastering the do's and don'ts in the darkroom so you'll get the result you desire.

This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more info on Photography, please visit http://photography.articlekeep.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Low_Jeremy

Aerial Kite Photography - Nailing A Camera To The Sky

By Tim Parish

 

Ever flown a kite or taken a photograph? Well, that's most of us isn't it! No wonder aerial kite photography holds such a fascination for so many people. More correctly, it's known as Kite Aerial Photography, or KAP, which is less of a mouthful.

Some have theorized that it's part of our human nature to want to see things from the air. Consider the fact that aerial views of cities and landscapes were sketched or painted long before any flying machine was invented!

The hobby of aerial kite photography got started in earnest around the mid 1980s. However, the very first examples of such photos date back to not long after photography itself was invented. In 2007, KAP is more popular than ever. The subject matter varies widely, but buildings and landscapes are particularly popular.

Digital cameras are widely used in aerial kite photography. In fact, their use in KAP has pretty much stayed in step with their acceptance by the general public. Initially, the cheaper cameras just couldn't take a decent picture compared to a 35mm film camera. As we all know, that is not the case now! Some digitals are very small and light, which is an advantage for doing KAP.

At the cheapest end of the scale, disposable cameras combined with ice triggers and balsa wood cradles enable small, cheap kites to be used. On the other hand, this approach allows bigger kites to take pictures in very gentle breezes which wouldn't allow heavier gear to stay airborne.

Some enthusiasts are after quality at any cost. Hence, they spend many hundreds of dollars on high-end cameras, radio-control gear and special equipment to suspend it aloft with a minimum of movement. The R/C gear allows the camera to be panned around to get the best shots, and the shutter clicked on command.

Some Aerial Kite Photography Highlights

Here's just 3 of the more notable activities of these photo-artistic kite fliers:

A quite famous aerial photograph was taken from a kite in 1906, documenting the San Francisco earthquake. A KAP enthusiast named Scott Haefner did a re-shoot of this striking picture, close to its 100th anniversary.

A small group of experts known as Team Drachen made good use of some grant money by using KAP to document whale behavior. This took place at San Ignacio Lagoon, Baja, in Mexico.

In November, 2002 a 360-degree panorama of the San Andreas Fault was created from KAP images.

The Equipment

You've probably gathered by now that this hobby requires a kite, a flying line, and a camera. It might come as a surprise to learn that the camera is usually suspended from the flying line, not the kite itself.

Although other types can and are used, flow-form kites are very popular in kite photography. With no spars and therefore no assembly required, you can just turn up somewhere and get your camera in the air immediately. These kites are convenient to transport as well, since they roll up into a small bag. Another advantage is that they are tolerant of quite strong winds.

Interestingly, zoom lenses are of little use in kite photography. In fact, people often try to cram more scenery into the field of view by using wide-angle lenses, even fish-eye lenses. Another popular technique is photo-stitching, where a number of images are combined into one super-wide panorama.

Accessories

A piece of gear commonly used by serious KAPers is the Picavet, an arrangement of lines and pulleys. Yes, it was invented by a Frenchman, in the early 20th century. However, it wasn't until the late 20th century that it was re-discovered and put to widespread use in KAP. It's purpose is to provide a stable and self-leveling platform for the camera, while suspended from the flying line. Some aerial photography enthusiasts add other devices such as vanes and porous sheets to reduce the movement and give even more opportunity for getting good pictures.

Finally, it's handy to know what the average wind strength is. With a little device called an anemometer or wind speed meter you can decide what kite and camera rig to put up. In stronger winds, it can help you decide whether to attempt flying at all. Kites and cameras can get lost when the flying line snaps!

Tim Parish and his family are rediscovering the joys of kite flying. They blog their kiting fun on their My-Best-Kite.com website, and also research the kiting world. This site will introduce you to many kinds of kites and kite flying activities, including Aerial Kite Photography of course! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Parish

Photography Success - The Lazy Man's Way

By Rohn Engh

 

Where do you keep your images? If your answer is a shoebox, plastic slide holders, or KODAK boxes, -- you are not alone.

Many photographers are organized and can find a specific picture when a photobuyer calls for it. But most, unfortunately, are not. However, there's hope. I'm going to outline what I call the "Lazy Man's Way" of organizing and selling your photos.

First of all, I'm going to ask you to step into the 21st century and quit grumbling about how Kodak and Fuji no longer provide film for you at the local drug store. Whether we like it or not, the Digital Age is upon us. So, let's get with the program.

You asked about being able to be lazy?

The Digital Age that you see others experiencing is the key to your newfound workable laziness. Why?

No more: chemicals, tin rolls, delivery of film, arguing about color balance, light table mix-ups, filing slides in pages and notebooks, humidity problems, sleepless nights worrying about delivery (or return) of your original slides to a client or a stock photo agency.

If you've lasted this long in stock photography, then you must be a dedicated person. It's time to make your dedication move in a new direction: Digital. This is where the laziness comes in. It's not so much the taking of pictures, or cataloging them, but in selling them.

A little history first.

After fifty years of dominating the stock photography field, stock photo agencies are gradually losing their exclusive grip on the industry. In the last century, the agencies were pretty much the only game in town. If you decided to go with one, you had to make sure it was a specialized stock photo agency. If you had five different specialties that meant you put one-fifth of your collection in each of the five specialized agencies. Today, whether you are a specialist or a "generalist," it's now more effective to market your pictures at an electronic "portal." And this is where the laziness comes in.

Portals are digital stock photo agencies that feature your images in a massive collection. They utilize keywords to help visitors (buyers) locate special photo needs. Since all the photos are in digital format, you have no worry of picture loss as you would in a classic stock photo agency. Also, you are able to join several portals at the same time if you wish, and determine which one is doing the best job for you.

Photobuyers like portals. Photobuyers use the search power of the Internet when they start a search for the photo they need. Using keywords, a photobuyer might land on a series of portals. Each portal has its own keyword search section, so finding the "just right" picture becomes much easier. In the next decade we are going to see photobuyers working almost exclusively with portals for this reason.

And if you want to be a lazy marketer of stock photos, portals provide you the opportunity to literally dump all of your top-notch marketable images into the portal. There's no cataloging necessary. Remember, keyword searches find your picture (in seconds), not a visual search. Here are more reasons photographers and photobuyers are placing their images in portals: portals are quick, (a photoshopper can browse a portal's collection swiftly); they offer charge card payment; they pay you, the photographer, monthly (unlike stock agencies who may pay only every six months); they offer real time reports on sales; they often offer direct download (24 hour service); they offer a variety of photographer styles and personalities; they provide fresh, new ideas and trends because their photographers are constantly adding new pictures; they calculate the fee for the photobuyer which eliminates the need for any negotiating; thus they allow you to photograph and they do the selling for you; they offer a higher percent of the sale than most standard stock agencies; they are, in effect, an outsource catalog of your work.

Here's a group of portals you'll want to look into. Some are for Royalty Free photos, others are for Managed Rights, and others are a combination of both. Some aim at low-end buyers. The pay is low, too. Others are middle ground, and others are high-end.

adobe.com; alamy.com; artzooks.com; bigstock.com; istock.com; myloupe.com; painet.com; stock.xchng.com; shutterstock.com; stockphotomedia.com; vizpix.com; photosourcegroup.com

So you see, once your stock photos are in a portal, or portals, you can go about doing what you do best, take pictures. This new work style may mean that you'll have to convert your top slides to hi-resolution digital images (about $10 each) and buy a digital camera. But if your dedication is alive and well, you'll soon pay for those expenses from your sales. Now you can lie back in your hammock and have another mint julep.

Rohn Engh is director of PhotoSource International and publisher of PhotoStockNotes. Pine Lake Farm, 1910 35th Road, Osceola, WI 54020 USA. Telephone: 1 800 624 0266 Fax: 1 715 248 7394. Web site: http://www.photosource.com/products Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rohn_Engh

Zen Photography - Being At One With Your Camera

By Tedric Garrison

 

Back in the summer of 1979, I met a man who automatically did everything that was manual with his photography. He set the film speed, shutter speed, and f-stop for every picture he took. While this is not totally unheard of, as far as I could tell he never used a light meter. He was at a point in his life where he was so used to taking pictures that he could "feel" what was right for a given light situation.

We were out shooting in the California desert one day when the battery in my camera had died and I had forgotten to pack a spare. He noticed that I stopped taking pictures. Without lifting his eye from the viewfinder, he commented, "Go ahead, it's about a plus two." I stared at him blankly. I had no idea what he meant.

Eventually, he stopped what he was doing and explained. I was shooting ASA speed film of 125, so that was also my starting shutter speed. When shooting totally manual the rule is simple: film speed = shutter speed + f-16. What he told me about "plus two" was that the rule is designed to give you an average reading for average light; since we were shooting in brighter than average light, I should increase the f-stops by two. So, my ideal exposure in that given light; was 125 shutter speed, with an f-stop of f-32.

I felt embarrassed to say, "But this lens doesn't have an f-32, it only goes up to f-22."

He glanced at me briefly like he thought I was kidding, and then softly replied, "You have two settings don't you?" I nodded my head, so he raised an eyebrow and said, "Then change the other one."

I took my shot at 250 shutter speed and f-22. It came out great and I was totally amazed. It took me some time to realize what he was doing. Basically, he was bracketing in his head. He had already taken so many thousands of shots, that he knew what the camera considered as an average light scene, and he adjusted up or down from there.

He was also aware enough to remember there are (at least) two major controls in every shot. I had gotten lazy; I was used to shooting in aperture mode, where I pick the f-stop and the camera does the rest. But as he pointed out, shutter speed and f-stops are like the clutch and gas petal in a car. They have to work together, to be effective.

So what does this have to do with today's high tech digital world? Everything. If you are shooting a very light skinned person and you want your photo to be realistic, what should you do? Remember that your camera exposes for 18% gray (an average reading). You might want to give your subject more light than what the meter suggest.

On the other hand, say you are doing a very dramatic close-up of a flower, and part of what attracted you was the deep dramatic shadows of the existing light. If you just shoot with what your camera tells you, those shadows are going to seem flat. Why, because you are never going to get a true rich black in your picture, unless you adjust for it.

Some of today's high end digitals are actually going back and adding more manual control, if you can imagine that. Some now have multiple metering modes. (A spot meter for example reads a much smaller area and thus gives you more creative options.) Some cameras that appear totally automatic include manual options, like auto bracketing. This gives you not only what the meter suggests, but other shots both brighter and darker than the original as well.

Remember the old adage that says; "If you always do, what you've always done, you will always get the same results you have always gotten before." Yes; cameras today are getting more complicated than in days gone by, but that difference needs to be embraced not feared. Take one day a week, and do nothing but experiment with a new feature (like auto bracketing) and see how much more your camera can do for you than you ever realized. Become one with your camera. Know what it wants to do, but more importantly... know how to get the results that you want it to do as well.

This Article Written By: Tedric A. Garrison Cedar City, Utah Tedric Garrison has done photography for over 30 years. In college; Tedric was an Art Major, and firmly believes that "Creativity can be taught." Today; as a writer and photographer he shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at: http://www.betterphototips.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tedric_Garrison

Why Do Buildings Look Funny in My Photos?

By Edwin J. Hill

 

Why do buildings seem to lean away from your camera when you take pictures of them? Or, if you're standing at one of the corners, why does the building seem to be crooked in any pictures taken from that angle?

We know that building walls go straight up and down. They are parallel to each other and at a right angle to the ground. But, when we take pictures of them, the walls in the pictures don't look that way.

Well, there is an explanation. In this article, I'll do my best to break the technical reasons down into something even I can understand. After that, I'll tell you what you can do to correct it. One of the problems is that you can't see the "crooked" walls in your camera's viewfinder. It doesn't show up the same way as it will in the picture.

Here's what happens. In the back of your camera, there is a flat surface where the light coming in through the lens is focused. In a film camera, the film is held flat right there. In a digital camera, that flat surface holds thousands of tiny sensors that capture the colors and shades of light. If this flat surface is parallel to the walls on the building, there won't be any problem. The light is hitting the flat surface straight on.

However, if you tilt the camera upward to get the whole building in the picture, those two surfaces are no longer parallel. The light is hitting that flat surface at an angle. One side of the flat surface is closer to the building than the other. If you were to print a photo from that shot and lay a grid over it, the straight lines on the grid will show clearly that the walls on the building are distorted in the photo.

The sides of the wall will get closer to each other as you move up the photo. It will look like the building is leaning away from you. The more the camera is tilted upward, the worse this distortion will be.

You can get a similar effect if you're standing near one end of a long building. If you take a picture of the front of that building from that position, the other end will look very small and far away in the photo. Again, the issue is the same; the camera isn't parallel to the face of the building. In this case, the "tilt" of the camera isn't up and down, it's left and right.

So, how do you correct that? The first thing is to be aware that this problem exists. Be aware that, if you want to take a picture of a tall building, tilting the camera upward will cause the building to be distorted in the photo.

One thing you can do is get farther away from the building so that the camera is tilted the least amount possible. It does make it more difficult to isolate that building from all the stuff around it but, at least, the building won't be as distorted.

Another possibility is to go to another building nearby and go up to a level that's about half as high as the building you want to get into a photo. At that point, the camera won't be tilted. The light will hit that flat plate in the camera straight on and eliminate the distortion. I realize that it may not be possible to find such a position in a nearby building. However, if it is possible, it will solve the problem.

Another solution is to use a telephoto lens to focus in on interesting parts of the building. Even at an angle, the distortion will be much less noticeable.

Not only that, you'll most likely have much more interesting pictures than a shot of the whole building would be.

Isn't that what we want, after all?

Ed Hill's first camera was a German Voitlander he bought while stationed with the U.S. Army in Germany about 45 years ago. Many cameras and thousands of photos later, Ed still loves photography, especially travel photography. He talks about it on his blog at http://www.EnjoyTravelPhotography.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Edwin_J._Hill

Composing Your Digital Photo

By Andrew Low

 

When you look at a photo that pleases you, can you detect the subtleties that make it appealing? Are you able to see which of its elements capture your attention? This article will look at the basic techniques of good photo composition that will result in a beautiful engaging photo.

What makes a good photo?

To spot good photographic subjects, you must start by learning to take a fresh look at things around you. You don't have to look far to find a good subject, but you will have to become aware of shape, form, color, and light, all of which combine to make interesting images.

Begin at home, you should not have to travel further than your own garden to find suitable subjects. Color - take a second look at objects that other people would take for granted. Candid photography - portraits make powerful and direct subjects that elicit immediate emotional responses.

Which format?

A common mistake made by beginners to photography is to assume that the camera should always be held horizontally because it is designed to be more comfortable that way. Use a vertical format if it complements your subject's shape. The imposing height of a skyscraper is emphasized by adopting a vertical format. The horizontal format is a natural choice for landscape photography.

Filling your frame - a simple way to improve the impact of an image is to get closer to your subject so that it fills the frame. It prevents the subject from becoming lost against ugly or distracting background details. Use a telephoto lens if it's not possible to get closer to your subject.

Where to place your subject - the rule of thirds. Where a subject is placed in the camera frame helps to determine its importance in the composition. But don't feel that your main subject always has to be right in the centre - the effect of this can be rather dull. Composition is usually improved by placing the main subject off-centre. The rule of thirds - imagine that your picture area is divided horizontally and vertically into thirds by two equidistance lines. Each line forms a good location for important structural elements in the composition, and any of the points where two of the lines intersect (four positions in total) would be suitable position for your picture's main centre of interest.

Using the foreground - choose your viewpoint carefully to include strong foreground detail, which gives your image a sense of depth and distance. You may be able to use complementary foreground details to fill the frame if your main subject is small. Emphasize foreground detail by raising your viewpoint and angling the camera downwards.

This is a short discussion on composition and I hope to discuss more aspects of composition in future articles.

Andrew Low is an executive search consultant who enjoys photography in his spare time. After toying with a digital compact camera, he had upgraded to a Digital SLR Camera and is enjoying and learning more of digital photography. You can read more news and reviews of digital photography at his website at http://www.leisure808.com and his blog at http://www.leisure808.com/updates Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Low

Making The Most Of The Cameras Photography Communities

By Mike Selvon

 

The cameras photography buffs use are like paints for an artist. The first camera was made in 1685, but a permanent photograph did not come around until 1826 and was by Joseph Nicéphore Niépce using a special sliding wooden box.

Technology has come along way in the development of the cameras photography individuals use. Several types exist for the photography community to take advantage of today.

Cameras photography enthusiasts use varied types of cameras. Many prefer the newer digital arts cameras over the old prints photography cameras. The digital cameras allow for photo sharing on the web and also for the image to be deleted or saved if need be.

However, the basic camera that uses film is still less expensive. Some people may be ready for the technology change, but their pocketbooks may not be.

Another thing to consider with cameras photography enthusiasts use is whether the lens will be built into the camera or whether it will be detachable. For taking wildlife photography, a detachable lens is usually needed. The detachable lens allows the photographer to be able to zoom in closer and capture intimate details that otherwise would not be caught.

The new digital cameras, however, have zoom lenses that can reach far, but still not as far as the basic camera with a detachable lens. Again, the use of the cameras photography buffs will use must be taken into account in order to pick the right camera for the job.

Cameras photography communities use are so varied that anybody can use them. No matter whether the camera is digital, basic film, ones with detachable lenses, or ones with built in zoom lenses cameras are a hot commodity for people of all ages to have them.

Teens are so happy when they are given a camera as a gift. Older people even enjoy getting a new camera. Pictures are great memories, and with the right camera, every picture taken can make a special memory last.

The art of digital photography brings great memories to anyone. Browse to Mike Selvon portal to find out more about cameras photography communities. We greatly appreciate your feedback at our photography blog. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Selvon

Capture Perfect Digital Sports and Action Shots - Digital Photography Tips Complementary Guide

By Yvonne Grubb

 

What gets you all excited about your favourite sport? ... the thrill of the chase in horse racing or maybe the atmosphere and tension of a ball game, maybe your favourite player? ... Well if you were to capture some of these scenes how would you do it best? For some digital photography tips, let's take a look at a few ideas right now to capture that realism ...

Get Familiar

It's worth getting familiar with the sport before you start shooting, for example, how points are scored, what causes penalties etc, as this will give you an advantage over others ... you will learn to expect where the best action is likely to be, and you can then capture those glorious moments.

Another great tip, as well as aiming to catch the action, capture the 'emotion' too. Be ready to shoot players' faces on triumph of a goal, or any other emotive action in the game and you will bring your photos alive!

Be Prepared

Cold and bad weather conditions can quickly rob the life of your digital camera's battery, so it's important to always carry an extra charged battery especially for outdoor sports.

Action Techniques

Stop Action ... you'll very quickly be able to shoot an action shot and 'freeze' your subject practically in mid air. Imagine the wheels of a drag car on a dirt road, bouncing off the many bumps ... for those few seconds while the car is in mid air, snap away to capture the action.

Lighting is not too much of an issue if you're outside on a sunny or partially sunny day say at a car race, dog track, or horse race etc, but you'll maybe need to make adjustments if you're inside a gymnasium shooting a basketball game, for example. If the lighting is bright, then you'll probably be okay, but depending on the type of lighting, you may need to activate your fill flash if you shoot players in action and you find your photo colorizations shifting to 'yellow'.

Also bear in mind the distance, as your flash will not carry too far ... it might be worth sitting near the basket hoop to catch the action!

Blurred Action ... a couple of ideas behind blurred action is, firstly ... if you look back at your photos you have taken using Stop Action, you may find one or two shots that did not freeze the action, which means your camera did not catch the action at the right moment ... so you end up with an interestingly blurry effect to your subject.

Secondly, if you're shooting a ball game, for example, you may get blurring if your player moves just as you click your shutter. If you did not intend for this to happen, you might be pleasantly surprised with the effect!

Panned Action ... the most difficult to accomplish, but probably the most effective shooting technique, once mastered. The advantage using your digital camera is that you can delete unwanted frames and start again, so here's how panning basically works...

Using your digital camera in automatic mode press the shutter half way down to focus on your subject, moving your camera sideways following the action, then pressing the shutter fully while still moving your camera. The effect created is the front of your subject should remain in fairly strong focus, while the back of your subject should start to blur, and as it blurs a long trail should appear, giving a feeling of movement like no other effect could possibly achieve.

Experiment

By knowing what your digital camera can do, experiment with different methods to get the best shots. You could try shooting in continuous mode, then try panning the camera along with your subject, whilst he/she or it is in motion.

I hope these digital photography tips are helpful. If you can get to grips with panning, as I have described above, you're on a winner!

Yvonne owns Digital Photo Tutorial which offers people information on digital photography tips Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Yvonne_Grubb

Get Those Photos Off Your Fridge & Onto An Easy Photo Sharing Website!

By CJ Carroll 

 

I love online photo sharing. It's fast, easy, and you can preserve your most precious memories for generations to come with just the click of a button. The funny thing is, I got hooked while cleaning my refrigerator.

It may sound crazy, but it makes perfect sense. Honest!

A few weeks ago, as I was wiping down the sides, making sure everything was sparkling clean again, I glanced at all the photos that covered just about every square inch of the door, all stuck on with those little tiny magnets. (I don't know how this practice ever got started, but it really makes the kitchen look messy.)

Anyway, I saw this really great photo of me and my Mom. It was always one of my favorite memories. I must have been about four years old, but I remember it like it was yesterday. We were at the beach and I was covered in sand from head to toe . . . and loving every moment! I'll never forget how Mom with a smile a mile wide hugged me as we took the photo.

I thought that this would make the perfect addition to the scrapbook I was planning for Mom's 80th birthday. There was only one problem: The picture was faded and yellow and curled at the edges.

I was really upset with myself. How did I let this happen? All these photos represented great times and great memories and here they were getting all soiled and smudged. I had heard about these easy photo sharing services on the web, but I never really thought much of them one way or another.

But now I had a good reason. I quickly realized that not all photo sharing sites are the same. I chose on that didn't make me jump through all sorts of registrations hoops. And I quickly realized that still others just want to sell you some prints. For me, it was all about sharing memories. Period.

Faster than I ever dreamed possible, all my photos were uploaded and stored safely forever!

Another thing I learned . . . there are several sites that offer free photo hosting which is great if you're on a budget like me. Don't worry, whatever problems you think you'll have . . . well, they're all easily resolved. I have basically no software or artistic skill whatsoever and it made difference at all! You'll go from camera to web in a matter of minutes and be forever connected with the people you love.

Before easy photo sharing, the only thing we had to keep us in touch was a telephone. Now we all can reach out and touch someone - or everyone - sharing the laughter and the fun! For me, it was such an inspiration that I sprinted down to my basement, got out that old shoebox with hundreds of terrific photos and started scanning. I knew what I was doing was not only for myself but for my entire family . . . and for my grandkids waiting to be born!

Prints are great. But let's face it, by the time you take the photos and they receive them in the mail, it could take longer than you want! Now when I send an email photo, it's instant. And I always assured of an instant reply. And there's nothing better than sharing memories with your friends and family. It helps you grow closer.

Matt Smolsky develops marketing programs and has written articles for a variety of clients, including Hoorray, a new website for easy photo sharing and easy photo printing. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=CJ_Carroll

Looking for a Good Digital Photography School

By Low Jeremy 

 

Although photography largely involve an eye for beauty and a natural instinct for clicking the camera, it is still important for photographers especially those that are just starting in the field to gather some experience in actual photography. Some practice on their spare time and learn the techniques on their own but this will take a lot of clicking time and magazine reading.

This is why most will go for the short-cut by enrolling in schools that offer short courses in photography. Of course, this will not guarantee to make you a master photographer in months but at least you already have all the tools that you need to make your way to the world of shapes and colors.

Here are some of the things that you should consider when looking for a good photography school to enroll to.

1.Course outline

This is perhaps the most important thing that you have to think about when looking for a school. The course outline will help you determine if the course is suited to the training that you need. It will contain a rundown of all the lessons that students like you will tackle in the class.

Take a look at the list and try to see if all the things that you need to learn are already there. If you find it lacking, try to shop around for other photography courses in the same school or better yet inquire in another school. With a lot of schools, museums and centers offering photography courses, chances are you will find the one that fits you to a T.

2. Specialization

There are courses that are offered according to certain specializations. For instance, some courses concentrate entirely on nature photography. Others go for portraits and human interest pieces. There are even some that do nude photography classes.

In other words, there are a multitude of specializations that you can go into. You can even take all of them; but of course, you have to shell out big bucks for that.

3. Laboratory and field work

Photography is a largely experiential field. You learn not from reading about it or discussing about the theories but in actual taking of shots and doing field works. In the course outline, try to look for the number of hours that will be spent outside the classroom.

Ideally, about 75 percent of the whole course should be used as practice time in fields or in the dark room. Only a quarter should be spent for theories and basics. Some courses offer a 50-50 ratio. Shop around for courses that emphasize field works and experiential learning as these are the courses where you can learn more.

Low Jeremy maintains http://digital-photography.articlesforreprint.com This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Low_Jeremy

Landscape Photography Tips

By Steve Grant

 

Landscape photography is essentially all about one's ability to see. No matter what camera you might have, unless the photographer has the ability to see the essence of a landscape, he or she will never end up with any images out of the ordinary. This ability to see, distinguish, and isolate the extraordinary from the ordinary, and then have the technical knowledge to be able to capture it photographically, is what separates the best photographers from the crowd. Too many people get obsessed with the equipment, and it tends to distract them away from what photography is really all about, which is seeing.

Subject matter, location, lighting and timing are also very important aspects in any type of photographic work, but particularly so in landscape photography. You must do your homework, learn about the location and what are its main features. You also need to find out what season, and what time of day is the best to capture the location at its aesthetically best. You then need to have the patience and preparation to capture that magic moment in time when the lighting is just right, and when captured, you end up with an image that will be appreciated by all who see it.

Emotion is another feature that plays a part in landscape photography. Keep in mind that if a location doesn't affect you emotionally in some way, it is probably not going to be a great image either. Also be aware of the fact that emotion is very different from one person to another, and what might affect you deeply, might not have any affect on some other people who will see you images, but who were not present at the time of capture. So don't be disappointed if others don't share your emotional attachment to an image. If it is important to you, then that is all that matters.

The choice of photographic equipment is very important. You must select the camera, lenses, and tripod that suit your style of traveling and general lifestyle. There is no point in being burdened down with a mass of equipment if it negatively affects your traveling and ability to actually capture images. Learn how to use your camera, to the point its functions are all second nature. That way you can concentrate on image capture and not the mechanics.

Steve Grant is webmaster to http://www.geoffrossphotography.com Geoff Ross is an acclaimed Australian landscape photographer, specializing in stunning landscape and wildlife photography. For more stunning landscape photography and related distinct articles feel free to visit Geoff Ross or write to webmaster: webmastergrant@gmail.com Yours comments and suggestions will be highly appreciated. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Grant

Digital Scrapbooking - The Wave Of The Future

By Michael Russell

 

Digital scrapbooking is one of the newest trends in the scrapbooking hobby. Scrapbookers are using the computer in many ways to enhance their scrapbooking pages, or create their pages entirely on the computer.

Some people use the computer to enhance their photos and scrapbooking pages. With the rise of digital photography, many scrapbookers are editing their photos on the computer before putting them in the album. They are removing red-eye, blurring out distracting backgrounds and enhancing the color of their photos. Some scrapbookers are even printing their own photos at home. Doing this allows you to customize the size of the photo to fit perfectly onto your page.

Some scrapbookers use the computer to make elements for their traditional scrapbooking pages. They will create journal boxes, titles, enhancements and more on the computer, then attach it to the page. The most common use of the computer along these lines is to create titles and text boxes for the page. This is because you have a huge variety of fonts and colors to make your text when using the computer. There is even a type of software on the market today that allows you to make a text out of your own handwriting. This will allow you to save time using the computer to create your text without losing the personalized factor of the page including your own handwriting. You can create stunning titles on the computer, using thousands of fonts.

The biggest trend in digital scrapbooking is to create your page entirely on the computer. Using digital pictures, or scanned pictures and scrapbooking software, you can create stunning pages entirely on the computer. These pages will look a lot like the paper pages you see everywhere. One of the benefits of creating your pages on the computer is that you can share them with friends and family, no matter where they live. If grandma and grandpa live two states away, they can see the grandkids' latest page with the click of the mouse. Not only that, but digital scrapbooking is a lot less time consuming than traditional scrapbooking. You can create pages much quicker and if you make a mistake, you just delete and start over. You have not wasted expensive supplies or ruined priceless photos.

If you are going to enter the field of digital scrapbooking, it is important to purchase a photo-quality printer. If you are going to want 12 x 12 albums, there are printers made specifically to hold 12 x 12 paper. Make sure whatever paper you are printing on is acid-free. You do not want your pages fading with time. Consider printing on photo paper, as this will let your pages look like a traditional photo.

Since digital cameras are becoming the norm, so will digital scrapbooking as the industry develops. You can do many things on the computer that you might not be able to do on paper. Don't think that digital scrapbooking will replace paper scrapbooking, though. The camaraderie that women feel when they get together to scrapbook will be lost on the computer, so paper scrapbooking is going to remain popular.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Scrapbooking Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Old Fashioned High Resolution Photo Camera

By Roberto Sedycias 

 

Tired of trying to keep updated with the highest mega pixel resolution digital camera? Well even if one has tried to do that, most certainly he will soon find out that his few months old digital camera is outdated in terms of mega pixel resolution. It's an ever changing kind of product that has become very hard to keep updated, unless one is willing to spend more money by making purchases every six to twelve months.

If the main intention of purchasing a photo camera is enlarging the image, then mega pixel resolution indeed will become the main factor. In this case one might consider a different option, which will keep his product updated for years to come. I'm talking about a used 4x5" film photo camera, together with a high resolution flat bed film scanner. All of this for less than one thousand US dollars. With all of this, one will get over 100 mega pixels in fine detailed film resolution and fine scanned digital images that can be enlarged up to 30x40" in size with professional quality. These 4x5" film cameras have done a remarkable job in general personal and commercial photography such as wedding, portraiture, product, documentary, advertising and landscape for nearly a hundred years.

Where to find 4x5" used film cameras? Since some of these cameras were mostly used in the past, until the 1960's, it should be no problem in finding them in American auction web sites. Anyway, a good used 4x5" camera with lens can be found for less than four hundred US dollars.

As for the flat bed film scanner, one can find brand new ones for less than five hundred US dollars. Just make sure the scanner is able to scan films.

Whenever purchasing a 4x5" film camera, one should look for the following features: folds into a compact box, flexible bellows, lenses that can be easily interchanged, accepts sheet film, ground glass focusing screen, easily handheld and optical viewfinder accessory.

As for the lenses, there are four main categories: 1 - general purposes; 2 - wide field (mostly used for close up work and landscape); 3 – extreme wide angles lenses; 4 – special effects lenses (telephoto). However, one might use a general purpose 127 or 152mm lens for most of his photograph sessions. In cases where it requires special lenses, such as architecture or macro photography, one will still find lots of them available in auction sites. Used lenses for 4x5" cameras made after World War II have excellent performances comparable to today's modern lenses.

Whenever making a purchase of a 4x5" camera make sure that: 1 - the bellows have no light leaks, 2 – the lens shutter works accurate at all speeds; 4 – the lens elements have no fungus and scratches of any kind; 4 – the focus is working properly between the ground glass and the film.

The option of using a 4x5" film camera, together with a flat bed film scanner, for enlarging images with professional quality is viable and accessible. Cheaper than top digital cameras, the 4x5" film camera offers better image quality and will always be updated in the future, maintaining its original value.

For those who wishes the very most detailed image enlargement, one can always use the 8x10" film camera. Four times the physical film size of the 4x5", this option offers so much film resolution that it is considered by many as the ultimate step for photo image enlargement.

Sometimes analog products deliver better results that its digital counter parts. If you are doing the job of enlarging photo images, you should give it a try with a 4x5" camera. You might just surprise yourself.

Roberto Sedycias (IT Consultant )

This article is under GNU FDL license and can be distributed without any previous authorization from the author. However the author´s name and all the URL´s (links) mentioned in the article and biography must be kept.

This article can also be accessed in portuguese language from the News Articles section of page PoloMercantil. Roberto Sedycias has a bachelor degree in Business Administration and over 20 years experience in systems analysis and computer programming. Currently working as IT consultant/chief software engineer for PoloMercantil.com.br. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Roberto_Sedycias